So far in our curry series, we have examined Britain and Thailand’s take on the Indian curry, familiar yet different, a classic example of other cultures assimilating our cuisine and making it their own, a reverse Tangra chilli chicken or white sauce penne, if you will. In this final instalment, we turn our attention to…
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Curry Paste : Thailand
Last week, we traced the origin of the word “curry” from its colonial roots to the skyrocketing numbers of curry houses in the UK. This week, we will examine about another distinct style of curry. Until just 1939, Thailand was referred to as Siam. Although Siam had never been colonised by the West, its cuisine…
Curry Powder : Britain
In this series, we will explore three global derivatives of the India’s most important culinary export. On the way, we will dabble in history and etymology, food science and philosophy, and a lot more. May is going to be all about the globalisation of curry. As an Indian, I absolutely detest the word “curry”. Think…
Eggplant : Flavour Sponge
Last week, we started our eggplant exploration, with a predominantly Eurocentric approach. The focus was more on the custardy texture of the eggplant and its seamless interplay with other members of the nightshade family. This time, we will focus primarily on the role of the eggplant as a sponge for flavours, with a journey through…
Rituranga : Basanta-Grishma (Part 2)
Last time, we started our survey of the spring-summer Bengali meal, with a close look at the first course and the rice-dal duo. This time, we will explore the rest of the meal, starting with course the veggies, and one of my absolute favourite dishes. Aloo posto is an absolute delight. Cubes of potatoes are…
Rituranga : Basanta-Grishma (Part 1)
“Fragrantly scarlet on bare branches or covertly crimson amidst dark green foliage, the early flowers of spring arrive to signal an end to the mellow contentment of winter and to herald a brief, unsettling season……The variety of colours ranged on the trees and the fragrance of mango trees in blossom carried by the balmiest of…
Beyond the Braise
The Slow Cook (Epilogue) We’ve almost done with our sow cooking series, centered around the humble braise. We’ve slowly worked our steps through the braise and witnessed the transformation of simple ingredients into ambrosia. Before we conclude, it is worth exploring the slow-cooking technique in the context of some other dishes which do not fall…
Liquids, Layering, and Long Waits
The Slow Cook (Part 3) Last time, we discussed two of the three basic elements of our braise: the browned meat and the aromatic base. Let’s now move on to the third element, the cooking liquid. The simplest choice is obviously water, which works just fine when the aromatic base is complex enough. There is…
Foundation, Fond, and Flavour
The Slow Cook (Part 2) Last time, we began our stew with the initial steps of salting and marinading the meat, talking about how this rather passive and time-consuming step plays a major role in the flavour of the final dish. It’s finally time to turn on the gas, put on a pot, and start…
Meats, Myths, and Marinades
The Slow Cook (Part 1) Last time, we talked about the concept and charm of the dying art of slow-cooked dishes, braises, stews and pot-roasts, in the context of two of my most favourite food books (check it out here). We discussed the overarching formula of all braises, and went through a glossary of some…
The Gourmet Glutton 