The Roast Dinner Equation (Part 2)

In Part 1 of our exploration of the Christmas roast dinner, we talked about the bird, the buying, and the brining. Now, it’s finally time to get cooking……

Utsav: Alright, flavours. What are some of the traditional flavours used when making a roast chicken?

Nodee: The baseline has to be a fat with some aromats. Think lemon, garlic, rosemary in butter and/or olive oil. There are many variations as per regions and palate… You can go for a lighter, summery combination like preserved lemon, honey and thyme. You can also go Oriental and try a soy/peanut oil/ginger combo. Overall, classic wintry flavours would probably fare better on a holiday spectrum.

U: What are some of your personal favourite flavour combos, traditional or otherwise, when it comes to roast chicken?

N: My absolute favourite is Nigella’s roast chicken. I like to mince my garlic, some rosemary, thyme, parsley and mix it into room temperature butter. The trick is to separate the space between the skin and the chicken with your fingers, taking care to not cause rips, and stuff most of it within, and some over the skin. The crunch on this double layer of buttery goodness is just next level. With this, I usually keep potatoes, carrots and quartered onions beneath on the roasting tray, for them to cook in the drippings and become wonderfully tender and flavourful.

Nigella’s Tarragon French roast chicken (Courtesy: Network 10)

U: Sounds lovely! But let’s think outside the box, shall we? You already mentioned the Oriental twist, what about Indian? What are your thoughts on a roast chicken – tandoori murgh hybrid?

N: A wonderful option already exists and is a crowd favourite. Murgh musallam is a whole baked bird, usually on the tandoor. The flavourings are distinctly Mughlai, the marinade having a ginger garlic, saffron-cardamom curd based thick coating, and it’s stuffed with boiled eggs and dry fruits. It’s something to be experienced at the best Mughlai places, no less.

U: Oh yes! But can you replicate the musallam magic at home?

N: Ideally it would require a tandoor, but I don’t see why a combination of grill and convection in the combination microwave oven at a higher heat than the traditional roast would not achieve the same beauty.

U: Speaking of which, how does a convection microwave fare compared to an oven or an OTG when it comes to roasting chicken?

N: Baking anything in a conventional and a convection oven is nearly comparable. All ovens have their quirks, temperature fluctuations and high heat spots which a regular user would be able to identify. That being said, a large bird in a tiny oven is a BAD idea. Make sure you don’t touch any of the sides or the top and back heating coils by several inches.

U: What are some of your favourite centerpiece dishes beyond chicken and turkey?

N: I am partial to slow cooked barbequed pork ribs, or perfectly medium rare tenderloin steaks. However, I would have to lobby for unusual favorites too, like a harissa spiced lamb or a good winter stew.

Slow-cooked harissa lamb (Courtesy: BBC Good Food)

U: We’re really spoiled for choice here aren’t we? The sheer variety is astounding. And nowhere is this variety more obvious than in the sides, which are anything but supporting cast to the grand dinner. So, let’s talk sides, starting with the very basic.

N: Veggies are essential. I may even like the veggies and gravy more than the protein some days (blasphemy!) Number one, potatoes. You can never go wrong with potatoes with meat. Be it the classic mash, fries or wedges, or the classier fondant or dauphinoise, spuds are essential.

Greens are as important. My number one and two are broccoli and beans- both can be stir fried with little effort and stupendous results. A little salt-fat-acid-heat and we’re good to go.

Third, carrots. The best are baby carrots, gently cooked and quickly caramelised. The list goes on and on- mushrooms, peas, cauliflower- can you really go wrong?

Next- gravy. Oh, gravy could be a chapter in itself. Trade secret- the flavours are there in all your drippings from the roast. Once your Veggies are out, deglaze the roasting pan with some white or red wine, add a little roux and seasoning. It needs nothing more but will definitely be the star of your show.

U: That’s a lot to unpack. Let’s take it one by one, starting with the potatoes. It’s near and dear to the heart of Bengalis, and for good reason. It is incredibly versatile. What are some of your favourite potato sides?

N: The mash is a classic and necessary to master. The perfect mash would be smooth, creamy and mild. But of course, the permutations are endless. My personal favourite is the fondant potato, which I wrote about and served with my roast. The recipe is on my blog and the flavours are timeless.

Fondant Potatoes

U: Have you ever tried using other starchy veggies for similar applications? Sweet potatoes for instance?

N: Sweet potatoes are easily available and make tasty fries and mash. Another remarkably good alternate is the cauliflower. I urge you to try a buttery cauli mash with roast. You’ll see the vegetable differently afterwards.

U: The potato side embodies the rich and creamy element, like in a creamy mash or a buttery fondant. The greens serve a slightly different purpose don’t they?

N: Yeah. They’re a much-needed relief from the nonstop richness. The crunch, tartness of green veggies needs to be preserved to cut through the overly fatty themes of the holiday meal.

U: Contrast, contrast, contrast. So, what are some of your favourites?

N: Green beans and broccoli would be the top of the list for the quick cook and versatile tastes. Peas or spinach quickly tossed with some onion and garlic and peanuts for the crunch might be a good option too. I’ve never cooked with Brussel sprouts though they’re apparently common in the West.

U: Which leaves the more miscellaneous category, beyond spuds and greens. What are some of your winners in that category?

N: Baby carrots, lightly peeled, blanched and then caramelised would win in that category. Sauteéd mushrooms too!

And that’s it for Part 2. Join us next week on Christmas day as we bring this series to a close by talking about some other roast dinner essentials and bring it all together into a coherent meal.

Sauteéd Mushrooms

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